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Wednesday, November 24

Gigondas

Gigondas is a star among terroirs, perhaps not quite in the Chateauneuf-du-Pape or Hermitage category in terms of notoriety or prices reached by the big names, but with a devoted following of afficionados (right Greg?). The town itself is perched on the hillside just under the natural circus formed by the Dentelles rocks, where they grow a part of their vines in a sun-drenched, protected little Eden. We visited Les Gouberts, and were rather disappointed, as we found their wines to be too oaky, and Madame suggested we check out the vinters' Caveau in the town itself. Turned out to be on the central plaza, a tiny little ledge with a lovely view on the valley, and a brass lionhead fountain... and to provide free tastings of all Gigondas wines. We tasted a half dozen reds, and really enjoyed the Chateau de Montmirail and the Longues Toques, of which we bought three each in 2000 and 2001 respectively. Longues Toques has been bought by Gabriel Meffre wines, which don't make anything else that compares, in our modest opinion. We found the oak problem to be distressingly common in Gigondas, and I suppose this is part of the "Robert Parker Taste" syndrome everyone's talking about. Location : Gigondas, France

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